The best things to do in Beirut
There is certainly no shortage of things to do in Beirut. Jutting out into the Mediterranean, Beirut is encircled by sandy beaches, limestone cliffs and soaring mountains. Its rich natural surroundings stand in stark contrast to the chaotic cityscape that defines Beirut, with its imposing apartment blocks and historic houses, all bundled together. At the western edges of the city, tourists will find Hamra, a neighbourhood filled with local haunts from a bygone era, its rusty signs and neon-lights obscured by the shisha smoke that drifts into the streets. The tightly packed nature of the city ensures that, after a short taxi ride, visitors can criss-cross the eastern quarters of Achrafieh and Gemmayzeh, where architectural vestiges from Ottoman times have been revived. Here, art galleries and museums are hidden inside traditional houses, their three-way arches and high ceilings vying for your attention alongside the exhibitions to which they play host.
Beirut’s quintessential mix of Arab and European culture is unique to the city, and has led to the distinctive art, architectural and culinary triumphs that manage to charm even the most seasoned traveller. When exploring the best things to do in Beirut, allow yourself enough time to experience the city’s atmosphere fully, spending at least a week in the Lebanese capital and immersing yourself in the local culture. This is made easier by its citizens’ never-ending hospitality that creates a sense of community which encompasses even the weekend visitor and is part of the spirit that has helped the city to keep bouncing back. Here is Condé Nast Traveller Middle East‘s picks of the best things to do in Beirut.
1. Discover ancient mosaics at Villa Audi
Located just next door to Sursock Museum, Villa Audi is a private museum containing a notable collection of ancient mosaics owned by the Audi family. Housed in a lovely restored late-Ottoman heritage house from the 1910s, the museum displays exquisitely preserved mosaics from the Greco-Roman and early Christian eras, originating from various parts of the world. The earliest mosaics date back to the 4th century AD and are displayed across the two-story villa. The collection includes both floor and wall mosaics, with motifs like flowers, mythical creatures, scenes of everyday life, geometric designs and religious iconography, all detailed in stunning colours.
In addition to the mosaics, the museum also features a spacious garden, sculptures and other artefacts. It’s free of charge and open weekdays by appointment, where a guided visit can also be arranged, so well worth a visit.
2. Visit the ruins of Roman Baths
For many living in Beirut, the outdoor ruins of the Roman Baths in Downtown are an overlooked everyday sight as locals cut around the city centre. But they shouldn’t be overlooked by visitors. Plus, they are easily folded into other plans around the area. Nestled in a small medicinal plant garden amongst high-rises, the remains of a major Roman Bath take viewers back to when the city was a centre of Roman law, created in the early first century under Emperor Augustus. Historically, Beirut had many major baths, but the catastrophic Berytus earthquake of 551 AD destroyed most structures.
What now remains of the baths is the fabled ancient underground heating systems called hypocausts, which underwent renovation in the 1990s after the Civil War. Visitors can see the stacked terracotta discs, which would have provided hot air to the marble floors above, where bathers from all social classes would rejuvenate in hot and cold pools.
3. Walk the length of Beirut via the corniche
The best way to experience Beirut is by walking through the city, taking in the sights of ladies hanging up their washing as they hum along to Fairuz and men playing gammon on the streets. The corniche, running along the edge of the city, is a key part of any such excursion, allowing visitors to pass easily from West Beirut into East Beirut without battling the chaotic highway that joins the two areas. I would recommend starting early in the morning in Hamra, where you can peruse the imposing street art murals surrounding the American University of Beirut. To fuel the journey ahead, grab a man’oushe from Takkhoush bakery, a street vendor popular with locals who are looking for breakfast on the go. Follow their lead and order the traditional Lebanese flatbread filled with za’atar or muhammara, savouring it as you venture down to the coast.
Along the corniche, sun-worn fishermen lean over the edge of the railings, surveying their latest catch, stopping only for an afternoon nap on their battered plastic chairs. As you turn into Achrafieh, you will be met by a mix of revived buildings and dilapidated ruins, an ever-present contrast in Beirut’s cityscape that serves as a heart-breaking reminder of the Port Blast in 2020. Whilst I would encourage tourists to get lost in the twists and turns of the city, be sure not to miss the Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque and Martyrs’ Square, the site of the demarcation line between east and west during the terrible Civil War of 1975 to 1990, as well as anti-government protests in 2019.
4. Lose yourself to art at the Sursock Museum
After three years of forced closure due to damage caused by the Beirut Port Blast, this cultural landmark reopened to much excitement. Built in 1912, by aristocrat Nicolas Ibrahim Sursock, the mansion was eventually gifted to the city, officially opening its doors as a museum in 1961. Combining Ottoman and Venetian influences in an architectural style typical to Lebanon at the turn-of-the-century, visitors can still visit the Salon Arabe with its Damascene carved ceiling, where Sursock originally greeted guests, and today the museum plays host to both traditional and contemporary works of art.
5. Admire the Rocks of Raouche
These two 60m-high limestone rock formations just off-shore are one of the most popular and recognisable spots in Beirut to catch the sunset over the Mediterranean. As you walk along the corniche, you will see fishermen zigzagging between the sky scrapping stones in their boats as they tug their nets behind them. On the outskirts of the cliffs, teenagers and young lovers sit in abandoned buildings, enjoying the view over a homemade picnic or beer bought from the local corner shop. For those seeking something slightly more comfortable, there are several restaurants and cafes overlooking Pigeon Rock as it’s known, and, if you’re lucky, you may be able to find a local fisherman who is happy to take you out onto the water to see the limestone formations up close, from the sea. T-marbouta, a restaurant heralded for its batata harra and hummus, is only a short walk away for those looking for a dinner spot after nightfall.
6. Try local produce at Souk el Tayeb
Situated along Armenia Street in Mar Mikhael, Souk el Tayeb is a market hosting small-scale farmers, artists, and craftsmen from across the country. To beat the crowds, arrive early in the morning and head straight to the back, where you will find fresh man’oushe and lemonade being served. Prepare yourself for jealous glares as you scoff down your breakfast and make sure you try the full range of local delicacies on offer; after a taste of their za’taar, sumac and arak, you will quickly find yourself laden with goodies to take home from your travels. Whilst the market is only open on Saturdays, visitors can also sample local specialities throughout the week at the Farmers’ Kitchen overlooking the souk. Curated by a range of regional cooks from across Lebanon, the menu changes daily and includes a rich selection of traditional dishes. Don’t be afraid to chat to the chefs either, as they’re often eager to share the stories and recipes behind the food they serve.
7. MIM Museum
Just a short walk from The National Museum is the MIM Museum, located inside the St Joseph University. Dedicated by rare minerals, gemstones and fossils, the museum is a mesmerising collection of more than 2,000 minerals, representing 450 different types from 70 countries. It’s considered one of the most significant private collections of minerals in the world.
From unique colours to crystals of staggering size, it’s a magical little museum to get lost in. The site also includes an entire room of fabulous marine fossils from Mémoire du Temps in Byblos, as well as a rare, perfectly preserved pterodactyl – Mimodactylus libanensis ‘Mimo’ – a one-of-a-kind complete specimen found in Lebanon, representing a new species and a new genus of pterosaur from 95 million years ago.
8. Shop for vintage finds at Souk al Ahad
Unlike the high-end Souk el Tayeb, this Sunday market is a chaotic mix of regional delicacies, knock-off clothing and occasional treasures. As you walk into the market, you are welcomed by the sound of manic caged birds and the smell of strong Arabic coffee, a promise of the characteristic variety of stalls to come. With some perseverance, and a willingness to roll up your sleeves to hunt through the piles of goods littering the stalls, it won’t be long before you stumble across hidden treasures; after a determined amount of digging, I’ve found rare vintage clothing, old love letters written on postcards and handmade bead necklaces.
9. Visit the National Museum of Beirut
Visitors to Lebanon are likely to prioritise the archaeological sites of Baalbeck and Sour, which, with their grand Roman ruins, are certainly a must-see for anyone travelling to the region. However, history buffs should not overlook the National Museum of Beirut, which has one of the leading collections of ancient Phoenician objects. A walk through its airy halls will transport you back to prehistoric times, offering a journey through local finds revealing human evolution. In 2016, the underground gallery was also opened, housing more than 30 Phoenician anthropomorphic sarcophagi, a fresco of the Virgin Mary dating back to around 240 CE and naturally preserved Maronite mummies.
10. Lounge at Sporting Club Beach
The compact size of Lebanon lends itself to day trips to the surrounding beach towns of Batroun and Jbeil, where you will find city dwellers trying to escape the frenetic energy of Beirut for a few hours. However, for those seeking some respite within the city walls, Sporting Club is a great alternative, offering views of Beirut’s limestone cliffs and the skyscrapers pilled upon them. This lavish club is a favourite amongst Beirut’s middle and upper classes; you can often find groups of friends huddled around a game of cards, cigars in hand and a never-ending supply of mezze to while away the time. Be sure to follow in their footsteps and sample the dishes from their seafood restaurant, which can be paired with an Almaza, Lebanon’s signature beer.
11. Sample Armenian Cuisine
If you make your way further east past the quarters of Achrafieh and Mar Mikhael, you will find yourself in Bourj Hammoud. Replicating the worn-down aesthetic of downtown Beirut, this neighbourhood is affectionately known as ‘Little Armenia’ due to its large Armenian population. In small ramshackle shops, adept shoemakers, leather workers and tailors chain smoke as they focus on their latest endeavour. After an afternoon of shopping for local crafts, tourists can visit Ghazar, both a restaurant and bakery serving traditional Armenian food. A must try is their Lahm b’aajin, a flat bread that combines the unique flavours of ground meat with Aleppo pepper, lemon and parsley.
12. Art and architecture in Gemmayzeh
Gemmayzeh and Mar Mikhael are easily the most popular areas of Beirut, filled with cute cafes, bars, art galleries and charming architecture. No trip to Beirut is complete without a few outings here. Spend the day walking around the area and taking in the many galleries spotlighting Lebanese artists, such as Galerie Tanit, Art on 56th or Beirut Art Residency. The streets are full of Ottoman and French-Mandate architecture – much of which has been restored and repurposed as restaurants, shops and cafes. The ancient Saint Nicholas Steps, leading up to Sursock Street, are a perfect photo opportunity.
Stop for coffee and traditional sweets with a twist at Levant, or grab lunch at Le Chef – Anthony Bourdain’s much-loved restaurant for local dishes. Come evening, the area is the epitome of Beirut’s laid-back nightlife scene, with everything from high-end cocktail experiences to hole-in-the-wall bars. While Lebanon’s unofficial national drink, the Gin Basil, is available at every bar, local mycologists are always experimenting with a host of flavours from around the world. A gathering of locals and tourists alike are always sipping drinks on the streets outside of Torino Express, or try secretive speakeasy Lucy Lu for a more refined night out.
13. Watch a performance at Cinema Royal
This 1950s cinema, which had suffered decades of neglect, was recently rescued by Lebanese film director Karl Hadife who hoped to help tackle the lack of accessible cultural spaces in Beirut. The cinema, which is funded through an NGO, is now open for artists to showcase their work whilst also providing theatre classes for local children in the area. Events are listed on the cinema’s Instagram page and its programme includes plays from Lebanese writers, intricate dance performances, and even parties that blend poetry with electronic music. Designed to be an immersive experience, visitors are encouraged to talk about what they see, with conversation spilling out onto the streets after each show. The best thing to do is jump right in, joining the crowd as they move for post-show drinks at the nearby Union Marks, a bar located in an abandoned cotton factory also owned by the Hadife family.
14. Party into the early hours
Beirut is well known for having a thriving nightlife and in recent years, it’s become famous for its techno parties, where revellers dance until the early hours of the morning at clubs such as BO18, Ahm and Ballroom. A favourite sight of mine is the after-party ritual: post sunrise, worn-out partygoers can be found enjoying their breakfast and morning coffee alongside businessmen, workers and other early risers at local cafes. For those looking for a tamer experience, the neighbourhood of Mar Mikhael has plenty of choice; bars with outdoor terraces line the streets where groups of friends convene, waving cigarettes around as they talk passionately over a gin basil, the city’s favourite cocktail. Whilst European music is prominent in Mar Mikhael, tourists are also able to visit jazz nights at Salon Beyrouth or dance to Arabic tunes at Meyzan; both are located in Hamra.
15. Visit the Yellow House
Once housing middle-class families, Beit Beirut, often dubbed ‘The Yellow House’ due to its distinct ochre-coloured façade, became a sniper’s nest during the Civil War. Situated on Damascus Street, the building is now peppered with bullet holes and has been remained uninhabitable since the war ended. The ruins now serve as a museum for the history of that awful conflict between Christian and Muslim factions, and passers-by are able to visit the spot and attend cultural tours of the building, with events listed on their Instagram page.
16. Jeita Grotto
This next stop is just outside of Beirut, but well worth the excursion. About a 15-minute ride from Downtown, Jeita Grotto is one of the most stunning natural features in Lebanon. Home to the world’s largest known stalactite, the grotto is a system of interconnected karstic limestone caves spanning 9 km in length. Inhabited during prehistoric times, the caves were rediscovered in 1839, and have since been fitted with a series of walkways, to allow tourists inside.
The lower cave can be traversed by boat on the underground river, and the almost-glowing blue water reflecting the thousands of calcium formations are truly an unforgettable sight. The area around the grotto has also been outfitted with modern amenities and eateries, as well as gardens, cafes and a short cable car to traverse the mountain. It’s the perfect trip outside of the city proper to spend a few hours taking in this natural wonder.